Excursion to Belém, 19,696 steps and 16 flights of stairs

Belém is a locality just outside Lisbon. We had arranged to meet our tour guide, Filipa, at 2 pm, but went early to look around first. To get there we took the Metro from  Restauradores to Baix Chiado, changed for Cais do Sodré. Then a train to Belém. It was relatively easy. We had a little wander to find the Monastery of St Jerome where we were to meet Filipa, then continued our peregrinations. The queue for the cloisters of the monastery were too long for us to contemplate joining, so we ambled around.

We found the Maritime Museum around the corner, also in the monastery building. We spent quite some time there looking at the feats of the early explorers, models of their ships, and items brought back from their travels. We were amazed at some of the statistics - 800 people travelling on one ship.  They must have lived so close. There was also a large pavilion housing full size ships, including ornate barges. After a quick look at the shop, where I bought a cork mat, we went to seek lunch. I’d seen what looked like a street of restaurants across the park, so off we went. After some humming and haaing we sat at a hamburger place. It was OK, but nothing special.  This is the view from my table, away from the crowds.

There were streams of people passing, as just nearby was the Pasteleria de Belém, where it is said that the custard tart was invented. Be that true or not, they have been selling them there since the mid-1800s, and they were selling in huge numbers. Everyone had their little paper bags, but we felt a bit overwhelmed at both the idea of queuing for them, and either eating them or carrying them around all day.

It was now near 2pm, time to meet Filipa.  She took us into the church of the monastery, free and no queue.  Then a walk to the famous Tower of Belém, back to the monument to Henry the Navigator, and back to the train station. Many steps.

We caught the train back one stop, and walked through the neighbourhood streets to the Museu Nacionale de Arte Antiga which was fantastic. It was a great display of the wealth and variety of objects gathered by the Portuguese adventurers. Fabulous items from China, Japan, India, Africa, in gold and silver and ivory and more. Filipa had done her homework and taken us through the galleries in a very logical order, explaining and putting things in context. She is really a terrific guide it was well worth organising her. Well done, Michael.

Again we were weary after much walking, so returned to our hotel via the three trains. We still have chocolate dipped lime rind, candied nuts, apples, and that was dinner before we fell asleep rather early.
Some more pics from the day follow: